Jewelry Pearls

Silver is a soft metal even when alloyed, and the finest silver articles can be bent or dented by careless handling. It is a proven fact that polishing abrasives or friction of any kind used on silver remove infinitesmal amounts of the metal. In time, polishing, rubbing or buffing will completely obliterate crests, monograms, etchings, and worse, render valuable identifying hallmarks indiscernible.

Silver in the home should be used. Daily washing by the natural means of soap and warm water will deter tarnish, maintain brilliance, and in time, create a beautiful patina. But when silver becomes dull or tarnished, it is important to know what to use to restore its luster, and how to use it. Before discussing what to use to clean silver, let’s know what not to do, for the don’ts are more important that the do’s.

1. Don’t allow a jeweler. or silversmith, to polish your silver by machine-buffing)’ the friction created can wear holes in the metal.
2. Don’t rub silver to create a polished surface; an efficient silver cream does the work without rubbing.
3. Don’t use silrer-dip as a short cut to polishing silver; it leaves an unnatural white finish on the silver, and destroys any oxidation put there by the silversmith.
4. Do not use the electrolytic method of cleaning silver. It is frowned on by all experts and connoisseurs. This method may be quick and easy, but leaves the surface dull, white, and lusterless, and removes all the beautiful oxidation from the embossing.
5. Never lacquer silver. To begin with, lacquer is poisonous and must not touch food or beverages. Furthermore, if lacquer “wears” on silverware or cracks, the exposed silver areas tarnish, and cleaning becomes almost impossible. Lacquer is difficult and expensive to remove, and in the doing, the process steals silver from the surface.

Gilding means to cover any surface with gold and is done by several methods.

Gilt bronze (bronze d’ore) is a method of gilding bronze that was used extensively in France in the r Bth century to mimic gold and give an impression of richness to any decorative scheme.

Bronze, at this time, was considered the best metal base to use for gilding metal. Its close-grained texture and strength made it suitable for ornamentation on furniture or to support and strengthen fragile objects.

The gilding process was done by covering a bronze, or any metal form, with an amalgam of gold and mercury. This special formula, called Mercury-Gilding, was spread over the metal and heated, the mercury was thus driven off as vapor and a coating of gold was left in an absolutely pure state on the surface of the metal.

Benvenuto Cellini, in his Treatise on the Goldsmith’s Work, discusses this process of mercury-gilding in detail and tells that the fumes, resulting from the heating process, were extremely poisonous and advised the sculptor to “leave this work to someone else.” This method of mercury-gilding was banned by law many, many years ago.

Care of Antique Gilt Bronze

1. Time may dull the golden lustre of gilt-bronze. To restore its brilliance is difficult-only a goldsmith with great expertise should be allowed to work with bronze-dord.
2. Regilding could devaluate a rare piece.
3. Don’t allow dust or soot to accumulate. Use a small stiff brush to clean the intricate designs.
4. Water, with a few drops of household ammonia added, will not be harmful if all ammonia is completely rinsed off.
5. Dry thoroughly.

Vermeil

Vermeil, a French word, describes silver which has been gilded.

During the early 18th and 19th centuries vermeil was made in many countries but some of the greatest pieces were made in France by the mercury-gilding process.

Modern silver-gilding is done by an entirely different method. Vermeil should be washed with soap and water and dried with a soft cloth. Never use polishing agents or abrasives of any kind.

Gold Leaf and Gold Foil

Gold leaf is also used for gilding many surfaces but is particularly suitable for covering wood surfaces.

Gold leaves vary in thickness from 1/200,000 to 1/250,000 of an inch.

Gold foil is much thicker than gold leaf.

Care of Gold Leaf

Any surface that has been gold-leafed is valuable. Frames of old mirrors or pictures have often been gilded with gold leaf. Care is simple: check the environmental climate and keep the object free of dust or soot. Use a soft brush for dusting.

The application of gold leaf is difficult; only an expert should repair any damage or peeling.

Caution: A cloth or the vacuum cleaner could remove any loose particles.

Gold, if reasonably pure, does not tarnish, but jewelry may become dull, and should have its pristine brilliance restored before wearing.

Many excellent commercially-packaged agents are available for cleaning jewelry but the following hints are inexpensive and equally efficient for every day care.

Cleaning jewelry is a simple procedure.

1. Fill a small bowl with any liquid soap and a teaspoon or more of clear household ammonia-the ammonia adds lustre to the gold and brilliance to any encrusted stones.
2. Immerse the pieces in the bowl; let stand a few minutes.
3. Remove one item at a time.
4. Using a soft toothbrush, gently brush the piece and rinse III hot running water.
5. Dry carefully

This formula is equally good for cleaning precious stones set III platinum. (Never wash pearls in anything but clear, cold water. Dry, with a soft towel.)

Warning: Before rinsing, be sure to close the drain stopper in the basin, or you may have to call a plumber to retrieve your treasure from the waste-trap.